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  #31  
Old 08-19-2013, 04:24 AM
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Default Re: The Joker

I'm really enjoying this Mark. A video tutorial might be cool, maybe a YouTube channel?
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  #32  
Old 08-19-2013, 09:34 AM
Mark Yungblut Mark Yungblut is offline
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Default Re: The Joker

I'll have more to add hopefully tomorrow. I had a major league fail on part of the display for this build and lost about 12 hours of painting time... More soon (including what not to do that caused the fail).

I have been contemplating videos. But first I want to do two comprehensive step-by-steps on brushpainting fleshtones for 120mm and under figures and airbrushing for 200mm and up... both using the Andrea Colors Fleshtone set. But the principles should work for the Vallejo's fleshtone set.
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  #33  
Old 08-24-2013, 11:32 PM
Mark Yungblut Mark Yungblut is offline
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Default Re: The Joker

Hey all I am back from the last vacation of the summer. It rained most of the time we were there so I got some painting in on part of the figure.

This post is all about presentation. It’s kind of a pet peeve of mine…
IMHO a well thought out base shows that the model maker has taken the time to think through their work of art up to and including how it will look on display. As a Judge (even though bases usually don’t count in judging) I’m going to give the nod to the builder that has a well-executed model on a well-executed base before one that has a well-executed model on a crappy wooden plaque. Exceptions to this being models that are not on a base like you see with many aircraft and tank or wheeled vehicles.

Here is a non-figure base solution my daughter came up with for her 1/1000 Enterprise refit. We took the plastic base to local craft store and found a premade, prefinished base for a vase that the plastic vase fit right down into… Some semi-gloss Rustoleum black on the base that came with the kit and bang you have a completely different look.



When it comes to my work that means adding a stone element to my base work… I made that choice over 25 years ago when I discovered marble dishes and paperweights at Peir1 imports. I wanted my sculpture work mounted on marble or granite like the sculpture work I studied at the Cincinnati art Museum when I was in art school.
The original pyramid-style base that came with the bust was much taller than I wanted and the mounting rod was cast as part of the base and looked to me to be a point of failure from a transport standpoint.



My solution was to do a quick eBay search for a marble pyramid style paperweight. I found two in the same auction for $25.00 with shipping. I chose the slightly shorter one in black marble I felt the green marble that the other one came is was likely to clash with the figure. The first step was to run a file across the top point to give me enough room for a drill bit. I then chucked the bit into my milling machine and Drilled the base to a depth of ¾”.



I cleaned the base off and inserted a piece of aluminum tubing. I cut the tubing long on purpose so I could adjust the height of the bust once it was mounted the bust has a rod mounted into it that fits snugly into the aluminum tube.



I tested the card provided with the kit to make sure the fit was good.



I mounted the bust and adjusted the height so that the overall effect was a little more compact than the original base.



My idea is to replace the Joker card that came with the kit with something different. So I did some research and for a great rendering of a joker. I redrew that and then added a font that looks like it is dripping.



Well I originally printed that out on clear decal film and then applied it to a sheet of styrene to which a few layers of gloss lacquer where applied. Once that was set I gave it a few good coats of Future floor wax. Well that was the start of a major FAIL. I got it all painted and applied a last layer of clear when the decal film pulled up and in some areas shrunk due the surface having tension applied by the drying Dullcote.







Nothing you can do in this situation other than try again. This time I decided to handle it like a true illustration project and chose acid free 100% rag Bristol Board. I printed the line art out on this and then prepped the surface by applying a few layers of acrylic matt finish to both sides to seal it and keep it from being too absorbent.

To start the work I thinned and then applied a layer of Humbrol #41 Ivory. This was applied to the background.





Next was to mix up my read color palette. I did this with the following Vallejo colors:
Flat Yellow
Light Orange
Scarlet
Flat Red
Red
Calvalry Brown (which is a dark red brown)



The first colors applied were the Scarlet to the lettering and the Flat Red and some Red to give the shadow areas a base on the Joker.




I then started to work the shadows and added some deep shadows to cause the font to pop. This technique is using layers of translucent color and adding a blending medium to the paint which allows for some blending. The paint is quite thing and the blending medium is from Winsor and Newton.



Definition added to the lettering. Just to give you an idea of scale the entire piece is 45mm by 68mm from the outside lines.



I continued to work the reds in both the lettering and the Jester’s hood.





Next is to tackle some of the grays and green for the eyebrows. I mixed up a set of grays using the Andrea colors white paint set with a drop of black here and there…



The first layers of gray added to the face and the “puff balls” on the hood. After a layer of Vallejo Base white was applied beneath.



Once the gray was initially applied I felt it was time to finish the background. For this I created a very thin glaze of medium brown and dark brown and worked that over the surface to give it an uneven, stained look.





Once the background was done I did a bit more shading and adding hard highlights to the lettering to make it look more like a liquid. You will notice that the black lines are looking dull from all of the other work done.



The lines need to be readdressed so I broke out m a Raphael Kolinsky 5/0 brush and some Higgins Black magic permanent/ light fast ink.



I this image you can see that going back over the lines with the ink does make a big difference.



When painting with inks it is important to make sure you test the brush every time you load it full of ink. Sometimes due to pressure variances, the brushes can disgorge a large amount of ink suddenly, when doing REALLY fine line work. So the best bet is to test the brush for a stroke to make sure it doesn’t glop all over your work. At the top of this pic you can see the brush did let go and kept doing so and that indicated a cleaning was needed. The lines near the ruler are after the cleaning.



All of the line work is done so I’m ready to trim.




Which was the next step.



Here is the card all trimmed out and ready to test.



Here is the card leaned in place.



More in a day or two…

Cheers,

Mark
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Last edited by Mark Yungblut; 08-25-2013 at 12:18 PM.
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  #34  
Old 08-25-2013, 06:34 AM
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Default Re: The Joker

Hi Mark-

Thanks for the updates! I always look forward to them.

If you could tell me something that maybe I missed: for the shirt, it is just black? Did you do any highlighting or shadowing?

Just curious as this color is the most difficult for me.
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  #35  
Old 08-29-2013, 01:32 PM
Mark Yungblut Mark Yungblut is offline
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Default Re: The Joker

ChrisMac, as far as black goes it is a difficult color to paint.

Painting black (and white for that matter) can be challenging at best. Fortunately there are not some paint sets that can help with both… Andrea Miniature and Scale 75 both sell sets for painting black and for painting white.







You can get some great results with these paint sets. This is a 90mm resculpt I did of an Andrea WWII German officer and all the black was painted with eh acrylic set. The results from the paint were good enough to snag “Best Super Hero/ Villain” at Wonderfest a few years ago.








For the Joker Bust I did not want to use acrylics. I chose oils in this instance because I wanted to get a super subtle effect on the shirt since it would not normally see the type of fading a uniform would see in normal use. The other reason I chose oils, is that the Andrea set tends to lean to the blue side. I wanted a truly neutral black for the shirt. The choices for black oil colors are typically Ivory black and Lamp black. Ivory black is called that because the origin of the pigment was to burn Ivory until it turned to basically charcoal. The Black it produced was to the warm side (or red/ brown). Lamp black was traditionally made by heating a piece of metal like copper or preferably silver over an open flame. The carbon that was left as a residue was scraped and used as the pigment. This color is a much more neutral black. So, that is what I went with Lamp Black and Zinc white. The combination would mix nice grays that were right down the middle of the road as far as warm/ cool.





As Shown before I put the colors out on a piece of cardboard to allow some of the oil to leech out.





After 30-45 minutes a significant amount of oil has leeched out…





I then mixed up a few shades of grey.





I applied a very thin and even layer of 100%





Taking a small, flat brush I loaded it with just a little paint to apply in small dots or lines.







This was then blended into the base black color. It is hard to see due to the shine of the oils, but there is a nice subtle highlight starting to show.





I loaded the brush with a lighter color grey and applied that as well.








As with the hair I used a clean round #3 brush to blend the color.





The same was done to the cuffs on both hands.











This shot shows the last bit of highlighting prior to hitting this with Dullcote.





I will post more tomorrow after the black has been flattened and the very last highlights dry-brushed.
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Last edited by Mark Yungblut; 08-29-2013 at 01:33 PM.
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  #36  
Old 08-30-2013, 01:11 PM
Mark Yungblut Mark Yungblut is offline
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Default Re: The Joker

Once the Dullcote had a chance to dry, I could see that there were some areas that still needed highlighting as well as some shadow touchup.











Here’s the finished black shirt. The only thing left is to add shading under the tie after I resculpt it and add it to the shirt.







In this shot you can see I have painted the lapels of the tux jacket with a pearlescent purple pigment. I used Jacquard Pearl Ex Pigments’ Reflex Violet mixed with Humbrol semi-gloss clear coat.

http://www.jacquardproducts.com/pearl-ex-pigments.html





I permanently mounted the head to the torso and the shirt looks to have just the right amount of shading and highlighting.






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  #37  
Old 08-31-2013, 07:39 AM
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Default Re: The Joker

Thanks so much for the tips on black! Tried it on some test pieces yesterday.

At least for me, it seems I got better results with oils compared to using acrylics.
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  #38  
Old 08-31-2013, 10:53 PM
Mark Yungblut Mark Yungblut is offline
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Default Re: The Joker

With some colors oils, IMHO, are just easier to use. Particularly with colors like black on a larger scale. You can also get different effects. In the next few months I'll post a paintjob I am doing on a 1/4 scale anime style figure where her pants are worn black leather... So the highlighting needs to blend in a short but subtle way with an ochre instead of white as the highlight color.
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  #39  
Old 09-09-2013, 06:16 PM
Mark Yungblut Mark Yungblut is offline
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Default The Joker

Here is my finished version of the Joker bust.
















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Last edited by Mark Yungblut; 09-09-2013 at 09:20 PM.
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  #40  
Old 09-09-2013, 06:22 PM
Mark Yungblut Mark Yungblut is offline
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Default Re: The Joker

One last final update...

The sheet of Maple Burl I bought off of eBay finally came in the mail. I laid out the square for the wood base and then rough cut it out on the band saw. I affixed a mounting base to the bottom of the base so that it could be held in the machinists vise on my milling machine. I then used a ½” straight milling bit and squared up the sides and leveled the top.




I then put in a routing bit and milled the sides to shape.




After cutting the shape I realized that the rise at the top just didn’t look right so I milled that off with the 1/2” end mill.





I then applied the first of many layers of clear gloss.




Here is a test of the base together to get an idea of the final look.







More layers of clear in between sanding.










Next up is to make the pop gun “BANG”. For this I created the art just like the Joker Card and that was folded over and then placed in a brass tube I sliced with a a jewelry saw the length of the “BANG” It was then painted with acrylics. I decided to redo the thing with a brass tube so that it would lessen the chance of breaking off in transport etc.







I had some 1/6th scale bullets for another project and those were painted correctly so they could be placed in the cylinder of the revolver.






Next I decanted some pearl white Tamiya spray so I could brush paint the pearl handle on the revolver.










I took some of the purple shading color I had used previously on the figure and mixed up a little thinned version to use to clean up the area glove where it meets the grip of the hand gun.




This was applied as a finishing touch.










[img]The last detail was to take some putty and add screw heads to the grip side plates, which was then painted with the same silver used on the revolver.




Here is a test of the bust mounted and with the base wood in place. All that is left is the tie.



I decided to sculpt a new tie because I wanted him to wear a bow tie in matching fabric to the vest. The original sculpt came with a bolo style tie. To start I rolled out some Aves with cornstarch just like you would pie dough.




I roughed out the tie on some graph paper.





I let the putty set for 10 minutes and then trimmed out several strips the max width of the tie sketch.







The strip was then placed on the graph paper and trimmed to shape. Note I put a little tape to hold one end of the putty to hold it in place while it was trimmed.






The ends were folded over and blended only in the middle to allow for the loop of the bow tie.




Two end pieces were added under the bow, and the center part was created using spare sheet. This was then worked to give proper folds.



I placed this on the figure (laying flat) to cure overnight.




Once the tie was cured I sanded any rough areas, hit it with white primer, then orange acrylic and then clear gloss lacquer.




I then used some of the scrap decal sheets from the vest to apply the fabric pattern. This was treated with decal set from Microsol.







Then just as with the vest the Marshals Photo Oils were used to highlight and shade the tie.










Here is the finished tie. I applied a flat coat after I took this picture and then attached it to the figure.




And here we have the finished piece. As with most of my work I will revisit this before it is entered into a contest to look for thing I missed due to the fog of building that I tend to get in towards the end of a project.




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  #41  
Old 09-10-2013, 06:50 AM
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Default Re: The Joker



Beautiful.
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  #42  
Old 09-11-2013, 05:39 PM
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Default Re: The Joker

I think you got ripped off dude. Where's the lower half of that figure? Or did you just get lazy and not paint the lower half? Scared of painting pants?

It'll do. Not bad for a Bungles fan.
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  #43  
Old 09-12-2013, 05:58 AM
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Default Re: The Joker

Amazing - surely you'll take gold!
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  #44  
Old 09-12-2013, 08:09 AM
Mark Yungblut Mark Yungblut is offline
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Default Re: The Joker

Quote:
Originally Posted by dasphule View Post
I think you got ripped off dude. Where's the lower half of that figure? Or did you just get lazy and not paint the lower half? Scared of painting pants?

It'll do. Not bad for a Bungles fan.
Laugh it up Bucks Boy... Yeah you know painting pin striped pants is beyond my scope...LOL
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  #45  
Old 09-12-2013, 12:54 PM
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Default Re: The Joker



"The emperor has no pants."
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