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  #1  
Old 12-22-2011, 03:19 AM
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Default Switching to acrylics - HEEEEELP!!!!

I've come to the contusion that I just can't do what I want to do with enamels, and am on the ragged edge, getting ready to make the jump to acrylics.

ajcmac's WW2 a/c builds is what finally did it. He said he uses Tamiya's paint. So, basically:

What do you use for thinner?
Is it compatible mixing-wise with other acrylics, like Polly S and Model Master?
What do you use to clean your airbrush?
ajcmac likes Mig's washes. What else do you guys like?
What other questions should I be asking?

Many thanks in advance!
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Last edited by The Cat; 12-24-2011 at 12:26 AM.
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Old 12-22-2011, 05:35 AM
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Default Re: Alright, you maniacs... I need some paint help!

Thinner:
I use the manufacturer's thinner, along with a drop or two of windshield washer fluid to break the surface tension.

Mixing:
Test, test, test. Some brands can be mixed, others not so much.

Cleaning:
First I rinse in the sink using water to get rid of 90% of the paint. Then I flush using Windex and/or windshield washer fluid. If it's really stubborn, I use Winsor & Newton airbrush cleaner and/or lacquer thinner.

Washes:
I don't. I'm a noob in that department.

Brands:
I use Tamiya and Model Master Acryl. Haven't seen a need to try anything else as these work well for me!

Last edited by zysurge; 12-22-2011 at 05:36 AM.
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:25 PM
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Default Re: Alright, you maniacs... I need some paint help!

Making the jump to acrylics huh Dave??
I will agree with Zysurge said there is some good sound advice there
I've used Tamiya, Polly S and Testors Acryl

Thinners: For the Testors and PollyS I have had great results using Testors 50496 thinner: Tamiya I find that Tamiya's X-20 thinner is a bit expensive so I found a solution to that and use 70% Isopropyl Alcohol and have had very good results with it...If you can't find 70% get 90% alcohol and just add 20% water

Mixing: Like Zysurge said it's all about experimenting

Cleaning: Testors and PollyS I use Testors 50497 cleaner along with a good backflush and it does the job nicely...Tamiya I use 90% Alcohol to clean and sometimes I use lacquer thinner for the real stubborn stuff

Washes: No fucking idea since I really suck at weathering
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Old 12-22-2011, 10:58 PM
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Default Re: Alright, you maniacs... I need some paint help!

if you make a mistake windex is great. It will strip off the oldest and thickest dry tamiya paint. Its odd stuff. But its the one brand that i get the most consistent results with. If you over thin tamiya though it will go chalky. either clear coat the model after or add a few drops of future to the thinned paint to retain color consistency.
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Old 12-22-2011, 11:14 PM
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Default Re: Alright, you maniacs... I need some paint help!

Im right there with you Cat. Acrylics just seem so unforgiving. I have two p-40 warhawks. ill try the smaller one (1/48) with tamiya and see how it goes. Something tells me ill end up soaking it in windex.
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Old 12-23-2011, 02:34 AM
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Default Re: Alright, you maniacs... I need some paint help!

Big Dave - can this be a sticky?
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Old 12-23-2011, 08:37 PM
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Default Re: Alright, you maniacs... I need some paint help!

PLEASE! Sticky this!

Wait...that didn't sound right...

You can also try craft paints from Hobby Lobby/Michaels, for your SF builds. I've had pretty good luck brushing them. I need to stock up on goodies, so I can start trying to figure out how to airbrush them. Lt. Zombe on Starship Modeler has a great thread acrylics on the "Finishing" forum that is stickied. Highly recommended!
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Old 12-24-2011, 12:21 AM
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Default Re: Alright, you maniacs... I need some paint help!

i can't even get tamiya primer to work right. I gave up and went to allclads primer. Even though its as expensive as Dom Perignon per volume.
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Old 12-24-2011, 12:28 AM
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Default Re: Switching to acrylics - HEEEEELP!!!!

Stickified.

Lots of good info here. I think I can make it happen. When I start that Scharnhorst build, I'll be using acrylics for the vurra first time!

Many thanks, guys - please keep it coming.
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Old 12-24-2011, 08:40 AM
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Default Re: Switching to acrylics - HEEEEELP!!!!

Dave,

You know all I've ever used is Acryls---Tamiya, MM Acryl, Vallejo. Contrary to popular belief, I've never once had peeling issues even on resin kits.

On resin kits, I use Gunze (Mr.Hobby) Resin surfacer--after a good scrubbing--and I let it sit for at least 24 hours. For me, that's especially easy since it takes me forever to build a model. I bought a large jug of X-20 thinner, and it's lasted me 3 years now. I've used the homemade stuff and it works fine as well, but I'm looking to eliminate any chance of having to redo paint because something went "wrong."

I let the color coat sit 48 hours to gas off----my litmus test is to smell the model. If you can still smell the paint, it's still gassing off. (my theory anyhow and I'm sticking to it. )

I tape off for the secondary colors using Tamiya tape, lightly burnishing the edges. If you're worried about bleed-through you can tape off and lightly clear coat first to seal the tape. The only issue I have with that, is that it adds another coat of paint to the suface and by the time you're done you may end up with a raised surface that looks out of scale.

Washes----I clear coat, wait 24 hrs and oil wash. I've seen guys use the water, dish soap, and Acryl wash and I personally don't like it. I've tried it and don't like it, very inconsistent vs. oil, but that may very well be because I suck at it. I just use what works for me.

Weathering----I flat coat if it applies (like Armor), then I go after it with Mig Pigments and a stiff brush. For more control, like streaking or post shading I'm in love with Tamiya pastels. Let it all sit for a day, and then a light flat coat.

And no----it won't wash the weathering off. In some cases, it will lighten the weathering-----better not enough than too much. In that case I'll redouble my efforts to taste, and re-coat.

Brush cleaning----like everybody else says with one word of warning: try to avoid windex for cleaning as Amonnia attacks brass and too much of it over time will make the o-rings "sticky". I've two Iwata's that had to be rebuilt because of this. After 3 years, my Grex work like brand new, and I've never used Windex to clean it.

That's my story and I haven't had any boo-boos in 7 years. Like all of us here, that's what works for me.
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Old 12-24-2011, 11:08 PM
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Default Re: Switching to acrylics - HEEEEELP!!!!

I mix Tamiya paints with X-20 Thinner at a 50/50 ratio. Never had any issues.

I've also had good luck with MM Acryl....even their flatcote even though a lot of reviews I have read are mostly hit or miss results....

I also use oils for weathering. I'd highly recommend looking up Fichtenfoo's demos on YouTube for a good primer in the basics. He also goes over MIG pigments as well.
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Old 12-25-2011, 02:04 AM
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Default Re: Switching to acrylics - HEEEEELP!!!!

Dave, can I ask why you used enamels and why the switch? Is enamels for beginners / novices?
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Old 12-25-2011, 10:08 AM
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Default Re: Switching to acrylics - HEEEEELP!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by lakespeed View Post
I'd highly recommend looking up Fichtenfoo's demos on YouTube for a good primer in the basics. He also goes over MIG pigments as well.
Yes.
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Old 12-25-2011, 03:13 PM
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Default Re: Switching to acrylics - HEEEEELP!!!!

Trip, the only paints I had access to growing up were Testors enamels, with a few Pactra colors thrown in.

I was eventually able to get access to some Tamiya and Polly S colors, but the enamel habit had set in deep by that time.

I still like enamels for durability and shirt drying times, but I can'd do what I NEED to do with them.
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Old 12-25-2011, 04:37 PM
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Default Re: Switching to acrylics - HEEEEELP!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 777 View Post
Dave, can I ask why you used enamels and why the switch? Is enamels for beginners / novices?
Trip,

I still like and use enamels as well (I LOVE Humbrol tins) but the main reason why I have switched to Acrylics as well is:

1) They seem to spray better through my Iwata airbrush

2) I seem to get a more evenly sprayed coat.....i.e. they are a bit more forgiving

3) For weathering. Now that I am hooked on oils as to my previous wash/weathering methods acrylics are just easier to deal with. You can use oils for wash/weathering over enamels but it's just more work to get them to look better. That's mostly because you have to shoot a clearcoat over each layer to protect it.

It's really just a matter of "to each their own" and deciding on what you like best. I am by no means an expert....I can only say how much I enjoy a certain technique until someone shows me or I learn a better way of doing something.

I'll also say this about that: George's little method of taping and clearcoating layers to protect them has given me a wonderful idea I want to try out next time I want to simulate a very thin layer of Klingon Armor. From his perspective it would be a bane to an aircraft however for me it may be EXACTLY what I want to achieve in a "layered" finish.
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