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  #16  
Old 10-14-2015, 09:48 PM
DonS DonS is offline
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Default Re: 1/350 U.S.S. Miranda Refit - Star Trek Reliant Conversion

There are 2 approaches I was thinking of...cut away the circle above the grids that leads up to and includes B/C deck (measure the diameter of the corresponding circle on my kit to see how much to cut away on the saucer) and remove the entire section of the saucer that would be covered by the blockhouse...looking at the first picture you posted, you'll see that the forward, angled edges of the blockhouse should somewhat line up with radiating grid lines on either side of the saucer. These should be good guiding lines to tell you where to cut.

The other approach would be to leave the saucer more or less intact (you'd still need to cut away the aforementioned circle) and cut away enough of the unneeded area of the blockhouse casting to allow the full saucer (with some trimming near the edge) to pass into the blockhouse.

There are ups and downs to either method...one person might like one way while someone else prefers another (or something I hadn't thought of).

One thing I might mention...if the rear of the saucer wasn't cut away (or enough of it was left to allow for adjustment), I think you'd see there's a bit of room for fitting since the only parts of my kit that sit on the top of the saucer are those 2 docking assemblies and it's not critically important where they sit. On the bottom, the lower saucer needs to fit just the way you have it pictured...the large, bottom center detail piece that extends from the blockhouse and follows the curve of the hull towards the planetary sensor, has to be placed just so (with some trimming, natch) in order for everything to fit. With that in mind, it may be best to build from the bottom up.

Of course, the parts can be all to be cut up and put together any way the builder thinks best...these are just things I was thinking when the parts were made the way they were made.
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  #17  
Old 10-15-2015, 01:42 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 U.S.S. Miranda Refit - Star Trek Reliant Conversion

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Originally Posted by DonS View Post
There are 2 approaches I was thinking of...cut away the circle above the grids that leads up to and includes B/C deck (measure the diameter of the corresponding circle on my kit to see how much to cut away on the saucer) and remove the entire section of the saucer that would be covered by the blockhouse...looking at the first picture you posted, you'll see that the forward, angled edges of the blockhouse should somewhat line up with radiating grid lines on either side of the saucer. These should be good guiding lines to tell you where to cut.

IT CAN'T BE THAT EASY! NOTHING IS THAT EASY! ::



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There are ups and downs to either method...one person might like one way while someone else prefers another (or something I hadn't thought of).
You're exactly right about that. I've actually laid awake at night thinking about this In the end, I want there to be a bare minimum of stress on the blockhouse casting.

I'm going to be tack-gluing and taping this ship together soon, just long enough to get a good center-of-gravity location, and then I'll start on the armature. The idea is for the blockhouse to support very little of the model's actual weight. The nacelle pylons will mount to a crossbeam, which will be soldered to the central stand boss. I'll have a better idea on its design after the c/g is determined.


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Originally Posted by DonS View Post
the large, bottom center detail piece that extends from the blockhouse and follows the curve of the hull towards the planetary sensor, has to be placed just so (with some trimming, natch) in order for everything to fit. With that in mind, it may be best to build from the bottom up.

I like that piece! For some reason it's one of my favorite pieces in this kit! I'm going to cut it up, though. I'm removing the arrowhead-shaped scoop. Chances are that's where the c/g will be, and I don't have the heart to cut a big hole in it. So, I'll put magnets in it and use it as a removable cover for the stand hole and power jack. I'm thinking about making the impulse housing removable so a mount can be attached at the stern, in case I ever get a chance to film the model.


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Of course, the parts can be all to be cut up and put together any way the builder thinks best...these are just things I was thinking when the parts were made the way they were made.
It REALLY helps to have your insight - after all, she's YOUR baby and you designed her!
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  #18  
Old 10-15-2015, 05:54 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 U.S.S. Miranda Refit - Star Trek Reliant Conversion

It's time for a walkaround.


Nothing has been glued together at this time. The only trimming that has been done is a little shaping on the impulse deflection crystal housing and the flash and excess rod removed from the roll bars and pylons.


Overall views:





























The main blockhouse casting. I'm planning on cutting out all the shaded area. Also, I'll be cutting on the line around the bottom. I need access inside that area, and that ought to help.






Ham-handedness in action. The lip under the impulse deck is really thin resin, I got clumsy and damaged it. It won't be a hard fix - just be careful handling yours.






A comparison of the Bridges. DON - GOOD CALL on making a new unit!!!









Greeblies. Don included clear impulse crystals and exhausts.

I really, REALLY wish there were PE grilles for the impulse!



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  #19  
Old 10-15-2015, 06:21 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 U.S.S. Miranda Refit - Star Trek Reliant Conversion

I'M WATCHING......


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  #20  
Old 10-15-2015, 06:22 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 U.S.S. Miranda Refit - Star Trek Reliant Conversion

Btw------LOVE the kit Don...... thanks!
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  #21  
Old 10-15-2015, 06:30 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 U.S.S. Miranda Refit - Star Trek Reliant Conversion

There a bunch of thin areas on the model that are tricky to cast....beneath the impulse engines, as you noted, the edges of the "hood" over the impulse engines and the bottom center detail piece, in particular. This last piece was causing me fits as I couldn't get a good casting, initially...the thin curved area leading up towards the planetary sensor was coming out either incomplete or paper thin. Finally got it, but some hairs were pulled out.

Dave, I gotta say, you're making this look better than I could've hoped. These pics are dynamite!
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  #22  
Old 10-15-2015, 06:30 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 U.S.S. Miranda Refit - Star Trek Reliant Conversion

Glad you're happy, George!
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  #23  
Old 10-15-2015, 06:35 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 U.S.S. Miranda Refit - Star Trek Reliant Conversion

Your cuts on the saucer are far better than the ones I did....I used a dremel saw and the plastic partially melted. I gotta know...how close to the radiating grid lines did you come out?
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  #24  
Old 10-15-2015, 06:47 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 U.S.S. Miranda Refit - Star Trek Reliant Conversion

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Originally Posted by DonS View Post
Your cuts on the saucer are far better than the ones I did....I used a dremel saw and the plastic partially melted. I gotta know...how close to the radiating grid lines did you come out?

That latest cut is actually on that radiating line. It may be ~2mm too much though but that won't be a problem to fix, I'll just glue a piece of .080" styrene to the back edge of the saucer and sand it to shape.

The important thing there is to get the distance from edge to edge exactly the same.

On that same note, I cut out almost to the first ring outside the B/C decks. I left about 2mm of plastic on the inside. I'll fix it so that puttying will take place between the inner circle and the B/C decks - that will be easier than having to rescribe the ring.


I used the old scribe and snap technique on the straight lines with an old X-Acto blade. I clamped a steel ruler to the saucer and scribed away. The Polar Lights plastic is soft and workable and responds really well to that.

I did almost the same thing when I cut the ring, only I found the center on the kit B/C deck and used a pair of steel calipers to scribe a circle.
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  #25  
Old 10-15-2015, 06:48 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 U.S.S. Miranda Refit - Star Trek Reliant Conversion

Keep forgetting to mention this...we all know resin tends to warp; as such, it might be advisable to put some sort of backing board support under the flat top of the blockhouse. The first blockhouse casting was a single pour of 32 oz of resin. Didn't work out as the resin I'm using isn't quite as strong as what I've used in the past. That casting went into the trash. Every one since has been a laminate of 3 layers: first layer is 16 oz of Model Pro Slow which is great at picking up detail and minimizing bubbles, followed by 2 10 oz. layers of Vagabond resin which has superior properties in regards to strength. I think the parts are fairly strong (as far as resin casts go) with the only weak areas being thinness in sharp corners, a necessary evil in rotocast parts. But some form of backing will keep things from warping in the long run.

Thanks to Ed Holt for the suggestion to cast in layers!
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  #26  
Old 10-15-2015, 06:52 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 U.S.S. Miranda Refit - Star Trek Reliant Conversion

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Keep forgetting to mention this...we all know resin tends to warp; as such, it might be advisable to put some sort of backing board support under the flat top of the blockhouse.

It's going to get a framework of soldered brass rectangular tubing under it



Just a thought - behind the BC decks....that grille over the conference room.....I bet a piece of Koolshade would look good there.....
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  #27  
Old 10-15-2015, 06:53 PM
DonS DonS is offline
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Default Re: 1/350 U.S.S. Miranda Refit - Star Trek Reliant Conversion

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Originally Posted by The Cat View Post
On that same note, I cut out almost to the first ring outside the B/C decks. I left about 2mm of plastic on the inside. I'll fix it so that puttying will take place between the inner circle and the B/C decks - that will be easier than having to rescribe the ring.
Ah, that's a great idea....I'll be stealing that (with credit to you) when it comes time to write the instructions...whenever that is.
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  #28  
Old 10-15-2015, 07:15 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 U.S.S. Miranda Refit - Star Trek Reliant Conversion

Before I forget---- where did you get the plans from?
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  #29  
Old 10-15-2015, 07:20 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 U.S.S. Miranda Refit - Star Trek Reliant Conversion

Yeah, those are frickin' sweet.
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  #30  
Old 10-15-2015, 07:45 PM
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Default Re: 1/350 U.S.S. Miranda Refit - Star Trek Reliant Conversion

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[...] Every one since has been a laminate of 3 layers: first layer is 16 oz of Model Pro Slow which is great at picking up detail and minimizing bubbles, followed by 2 10 oz. layers of Vagabond resin which has superior properties in regards to strength. I think the parts are fairly strong (as far as resin casts go) with the only weak areas being thinness in sharp corners, a necessary evil in rotocast parts. But some form of backing will keep things from warping in the long run.
Thanks to Ed Holt for the suggestion to cast in layers!
Every aspect of this project stuns me with its engineering prowess and elegant execution. Just cannot wait to see this kit in person...

/geekmode off
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