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  #31  
Old 09-17-2011, 10:39 AM
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Default Re: Moonbase Alpha Laser Tanks...ALL THREE!

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  #32  
Old 09-17-2011, 12:40 PM
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Default Re: Moonbase Alpha Laser Tanks...ALL THREE!

I've the exact same thing for all three Sean. If you ever want them.



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  #33  
Old 09-17-2011, 07:27 PM
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Default Re: Moonbase Alpha Laser Tanks...ALL THREE!

Holy shit, Rob! Thanks for that info. I mean, a complete kit list? Talk about getting someone hooked for one of these builds! I don't know if I'm going to sleep tonight!
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  #34  
Old 09-17-2011, 08:02 PM
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Default Re: Moonbase Alpha Laser Tanks...ALL THREE!

Kit list? What kit list? I'm certain you must be mistaken???

I sent you the complete diagram of the construction of Whoville?

Didn't I???



(You're welcome my friend!)

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  #35  
Old 09-17-2011, 08:51 PM
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Default Re: Moonbase Alpha Laser Tanks...ALL THREE!

He gets Whoville??? You sent ME the plans for a Teletubby house!
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  #36  
Old 09-17-2011, 09:45 PM
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Default Re: Moonbase Alpha Laser Tanks...ALL THREE!

You don't specify, you get what I send.

Had you WANTED Whoville, like Sean ASKED for, then that's what you'da gotted.

You didn't, so you get La-La's abode.

Rob.
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  #37  
Old 09-17-2011, 10:56 PM
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Default Re: Moonbase Alpha Laser Tanks...ALL THREE!

Rob, are you thinking about doing a kit of all the parts needed, except for the tank chassis?

Oh, and as for the build...

I'll be in my bunk!
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  #38  
Old 09-17-2011, 11:17 PM
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Default Re: Moonbase Alpha Laser Tanks...ALL THREE!

Hey Sam, you mean like this?

Rob.
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  #39  
Old 09-18-2011, 09:05 PM
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Default Re: Moonbase Alpha Laser Tanks...ALL THREE!

The 1:600 AIRFIX German Battleship Bismarck (or Turpitz) is needed for these builds. There are numerous pieces needed from this kit and here are a couple that need to be trimmed. These are the main deck from the kit #4 and the first superstructure #5.

I've spent the last couple days working on cleaning up the flash and trimming the tabs from those suspension parts in an earlier picture, so not much else to report just yet.

Rob.
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  #40  
Old 09-19-2011, 02:03 AM
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Default Re: Moonbase Alpha Laser Tanks...ALL THREE!

Here's a process that's a time consumer, but has to be done. The VHE-20 Plastruct/EMA caps have to be mounted to the wheels of the Chieftain.

The poly caps have a pointed tip and lug nuts detail which have to be removed BEHIND the flange leaving just the straight part of each poly cap and then VHE's attached to each wheel. The back of each VHE is lightly sanded and then the trimmed poly caps dropped into the opening of each wheel trapping the now trimmed poly cap which holds the wheels to the axles inside the wheel opening just behind each VHE-20 cap. This is VERY similar to the way the rear wheels are designed. The rear wheels have a poly cap holder on the internals of each wheel that gets put in place before the two halves get glued.

Here's a couple pictures.

Rob.
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Last edited by Eagle-1; 09-26-2011 at 10:35 PM.
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  #41  
Old 09-21-2011, 01:57 AM
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Default Re: Moonbase Alpha Laser Tanks...ALL THREE!

All caps done. Not too bad, just alot of them! Also, here's a step I take to straighten up the seams on each wheel half. There is a mold seam right down the vertical of each wheel half. I smooth this out. To do this, I chuck each wheel set in my cordless drill and scrape the mold seam off using a curved X-acto blade while the drill spins. The wheel assemblies alone will spin, so I sandwich a small bit of sandpaper in between to prevent this.

Another time consuming bit simply because there are so many wheels doing three sets at once!

Rob.
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Last edited by Eagle-1; 09-26-2011 at 10:25 PM.
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  #42  
Old 09-21-2011, 05:15 PM
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Default Re: Moonbase Alpha Laser Tanks...ALL THREE!

Wheels.

And PLENTY of 'em!

Rob.
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  #43  
Old 09-22-2011, 07:53 PM
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Default Re: Moonbase Alpha Laser Tanks...ALL THREE!

Here's one I just discovered while making up the chassis for this remote Chieftain #56603.

The rear pulley wheel gets mounted onto the new gearbox I showed earlier through an opening that has always been a part of this chassis.

I guess they needed a little extra strength where the gearbox shafts protrude through the rear opening. There is a small plate provided which is suppose to span the opening.



The actual Chieftain chassis hull hasn't changed (much) from the old vintage kits and this plate has never been required, so I'm not sure yet why they've decided it needs this, but instead of leaving the opening, I decided to install the plate. When I did put it in place, it just stuck out like a sore thumb. Looking at it a bit, with a little modification, I could make it barely noticable. It is suppose to fit along the flange around this rear opening with the detailed side, inside the tank. I trimmed the mounting flange off of it and mounted it backwards farther into the opening against a second flange further towards the inside of the chassis.



Having done this, the hole which allowed for the shafts to go through, ended up just a little farther outside of the opening than it did when the plate was mounted properly, so I checked the thicness of the original mounting flange I just removed (on the other before I trimmed it) and got this shaft hole to the exact amount of distance from the tank body as it should be with a little sanding. This is important to be sure that the rear wheels are the same distance they are suppose to be because all the wheels need to be aligned along the whole tread length.

What I ended up with looks better, to me anyway, and isn't near as noticable as before, especially once the paint goes on.



I'll be back in just a bit with a finished chassis. I HATE WAITING FOR PAINT TO DRY!!!

Rob.
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Last edited by Eagle-1; 09-22-2011 at 08:10 PM.
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  #44  
Old 09-22-2011, 08:19 PM
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Default Re: Moonbase Alpha Laser Tanks...ALL THREE!

Rob, what White are you using?
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  #45  
Old 09-22-2011, 08:41 PM
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Default Re: Moonbase Alpha Laser Tanks...ALL THREE!

I'm using a combo of Krylon semi-gloss as a base (over the Rustoleum sandable primer) and then a thin coat of Rustoleum flat white while the Krylon coat is still wet. Martin Bower used rattle cans for 95% of these builds, so I've always stuck to that as best I can. Now, it has been said that Mr. Bower used Flat White from a rattle can and there has only been assumptions as to what brand he used. It is an accepted fact that he DID use flat paint though. Folks who have owned them or possessed them for awhile have said that. As you all know, flat white is NOT very practical for a model you'll be handling for several reasons. Krylon white is TOO white to me. Rustoleum flat white has a very slight off-white tint to it a brings down the stark white a great deal. To get past the flat white problems, I do the majority of the painting with the semi-gloss Krylon and then just a thin layer of the Rustoleum flat while the Krylon is still wet and it makes this semi-gloss, slightly off-white color that works better than just the stark white Krylon, or the Rustoleum off-white flat. They seem to 'mix' when you combine them wet. You can't wait around very long, because if the Krylon dries, you'll be back to a flat surface.

If that makes ANY sense.



Anyway, it has 'seemed' to work for me for quite awhile and gives the model a good candy coated shell AND keeps everything in the origianals vein. As you can (hopefully) see in my earlier pictures, it isn't a stark white AND it isn't quite a flat finish.

Rob.
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Last edited by Eagle-1; 09-22-2011 at 08:45 PM.
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