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Old 07-08-2013, 08:16 AM
Mark Yungblut Mark Yungblut is offline
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Default The Joker

Greetings all,

I picked up this sweet little gem of a kit a while back.

After talking to a few people about this piece I decided to follow the advice of my friend Erin Lantz in that the skin should be done mottled and not just completely white. So I went with that idea and did some research to find some good up-to-date reference art for the Joker. I know lately he has been depicted sicklier looking and thusly scarier…

Here is the model in just white primer.



Here is a promo build of the bust to give you some idea of how it can look painted up.



One of the references I am using is art done by an artist named Mike Deodato.



I am also using pictures of the Side Show Special Edition Joker which I REALLY like as a sculpt.



So after cleaning up the few seam lines and filling just a tiny few pin holes, I put the base white primer coat and allowed it 24 hours to dry.

[img]
https://hvnraq.bn1.livefilestore.com/y2phxEdIR4QODhi1LDUpoG19or_AZ5scR9Z1WxS151u-dCzDJDFlhP63emvyi6Ph064VuC5xANwu83kigzoFZWgATAxGpj 0GDi0C13auI-GkTY/DSCF2190.JPG?psid=1[/img]

A common technique used to create mottled skin is to paint airbrush tiny figure 8 shaped as a base over which flesh tones are painted. In the case of a smaller piece like this, I chose to use a watercolor pencil to create the figure 8 shapes. So I covered the head and neck with green figure 8s.



Transparent Flesh tone was added over the first set of figure 8s. For all Flesh tone colors and whites I am using Andrea Colors Flesh Tone kit and their White painting kit. Both of these kits have 6 bottles that cover a complete range of the color from Highlight to shadow.



Side view of the same…



Next layer of mottled skin was drawn in purple watercolor pencil and then I used a fine brush to soften that effect.



Transparent Flesh Tone layer two was applied.



Next up I started adding some translucent shading in flesh tone.



Following the shading I then started with a base transparent white.





Next up was to hit some area with the highlight white.



I re-introduce flesh tone to the areas around the eyes and some of the deep creases in the forehead.



I then added a darker tone to get closer to the reference. One hint about the cleaning up the overspray, is that I used a 1/16th inch flat brush dampened with the brush cleaning wash which is 50/50 Windex and water. You can go in and delicately scrub away and blend the tiny overspray areas.



More White and base wash for the mouth and eyes.



When I do eyes and teeth I very rarely ever use pure white. So I painted the lightest flesh tone and added that color for the teeth and eye base. For the eyes I left a dark line around the outside.




Here is a US Quarter coin for a size reference.




Eyebrow base enamel applied in a translucent layer, which allows some of the detail in the sculpting of the texture to show…



Humbrol Green # 75 thinned to translucence and added with a 1/8” Loew-Cornell Wedge brush. I like using the wedge brush because it allows a lot of paint to be held in the brush but also allows for rough detailing without having to use two brushes. (I got mine at Hobby Lobby here in the US). Since the base color is straight out of the Humbrol tin I can go back later and readdress areas with a detailing brush.



The base layer for the hair is complete and drying.



Next up is something that old school figure painters may have issues with…Archer’s Transfers makes several sets of eye decals. I use them as a means of locating the eyes on the figure and it allows me to make sure that the eyes are placed correctly and that they are not walleyed or cross-eyed. So I used a pair to place the eyes and then I clear coated them with Future Floor Wax. Once that is set I will begin to paint over the decal with opaque colors. If eyes are something that you don’t like to paint then these decals make a great alternative. IMHO using these decals is no different than using decals on a plane or tank.



First a dark circle is painted in green acrylic, and then a medium green circle is added inside that original dot, leaving a thin dark green edge.




The pupil placed in an 80% black. I don’t use full black as it tends to “pop” too much and make it look out of scale. Just as an FYI I use my double magnification Opti-visor since this is 1.25mm in diameter…



A very tiny base white dot is added to the upper left hand side of the Iris to denote a light reflection. I also painted the base deep red for the lips.



A small dot of Alizarin Crimson oil is added to each corner of the eyes.



A fine tipped brush (6/0 Raphael) is used to pull some of the color into the eyeball to simulate a bloodshot look.



The head as it stands now the hair is up next on this part, but I am taking a brief break to work on the torso. More on that tomorrow...

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Old 07-08-2013, 09:01 AM
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Default Re: The Joker

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Originally Posted by Mark Yungblut View Post
I'm editing back in a bit.

Gorrammitt!!!



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Old 07-08-2013, 10:16 AM
Mark Yungblut Mark Yungblut is offline
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Default Re: The Joker

The step by steps were WAY too big so I had to resize and re-upload.
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Old 07-08-2013, 01:40 PM
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Default Re: The Joker

I just......I..

Fuck man that's just amazing.

George
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Old 07-08-2013, 02:17 PM
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Default Re: The Joker

Looks like you're going for Joker from "The Killing Joke". Most excellent!
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Old 07-08-2013, 03:17 PM
Mark Yungblut Mark Yungblut is offline
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Default Re: The Joker

Thanks for the compliments!

Partially Griff, I'm also adding my spin to the likeness. I figure that if the skin color is based on a chemical reaction then it needed to not be uniform...
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Old 07-09-2013, 10:55 AM
Mark Yungblut Mark Yungblut is offline
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Default Re: The Joker

So as I stated before I decided to take a brief break from painting the head and decided to work on the torso. One of the features of this piece is the garish colors that the joker wears. For the trademark purple suit and orange vest, I wanted very intense colors. I chose to use Games Workshop’s Citadel colors as they tend to be extremely intense particularly in the primary and secondary color ranges. So it will be Xereus Purple and Troll Slayer Orange as the base colors for the torso.

I painted the initial layer on the orange vest I realize that even with proper shading and highlighting it would be rather boring. So I toyed with the idea of a texture or pattern to paint on the vest like brocade or paisley when I struck on an idea. A plaque was included with the bust that has an outline of a jester engraved within it surface. So I filled that engraving with black ink and scanned the image.




I imported that image into an app called Freehand which I used back in my graphic design days. I resized the image to be about 3mm tall and then duplicated it and flipped one of the heads upside down. I then colored the lines a nice dark red and created a pattern. This was printed on clear decal film and sealed.



So before painting the vest I took my contour gauge and used it to get the shape of the depression where the vest meets the jacket. For those that are not familiar with a contour gauge, it is a tool with a series of metal bars that can slide. These bars are set abutting each other and you push that up against the shape you want to mimic.



This will give you a fairly close approximation of the shape. I did this on both sides and transferred that to cardstock to make a left and right pattern using the overlap of the front of the vest as the divining line.



Once the patterns were done I airbrushed the dark and light parts of the vest. I also used some brush washes of dark red to add a harsher shading effect. This will look normal after the pattern is applied.



Once that had time to set I gave the entire area a good coat of Future Floor Wax. This was done both to seal it and to add a glossy base for applying decals. In this shot you get a good idea of the intensity of the colors and the harshness with which I painted them.



After transferring the pattern to the decal sheet I cut it to shape. I then further cut up the decals so that I could apply them in sections and make sure they each laid flat in the end. I cut along line in between the jester heads.



I used Microset and Microsol to set and soften the decal film to get it to lay down over the wrinkles in the vest.





I continued to add sections until the entire vest area was covered.



Once the decals dried for 24hours, I gave them a good coat of Testor’s Dullcote. That will be given 12 or so hours to cure before I go back in tonight and add some Marshall’s Photo oils to enhance the shading. Note that I also decided to go with a black shirt instead of a dark green one.



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Old 07-09-2013, 11:21 AM
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Default Re: The Joker

Mark, that's awesome work. I LOVE the decals on the vest!

This is more like a tutorial than a regular build thread.... THANK YOU for posting it!
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:32 AM
Mark Yungblut Mark Yungblut is offline
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Default Re: The Joker

LOL Thanks Cat... I spend so much time doing How-To software documentation that things like this naturally end up tutorial like.
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:34 AM
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Default Re: The Joker

Holy crap, that's cool! Deifinitely adds lots of viual interest.
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:22 PM
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Default Re: The Joker

This is really really nice work man.

I have a Kit Kong Joker Bust that I thought rocked until I saw this beast of yours.
Great work with the decals.
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:01 PM
Mark Yungblut Mark Yungblut is offline
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Default Re: The Joker

So the last step with the vest is to help the decals blend into the colors showing through the clear film. I learned this technique many years ago when I applied it to a model after hand coloring some black and white photographs. A company called Marshall sells Photo Oils which are intended to color photographs. They are true linseed based oil colors with one VERY big difference. All of the colors are transparent! They are not by any means cheap, the Introductory set is 5 colors and around $30.00 and individual tubes are $10.95 per 2”x1/2” tubes. But a little goes a very long way and my set is 15 years old. The results are just SO worth the expense.

So the first step was to put out the colors I planned to use on a piece of card stock. This soaks up any excess linseed oil and makes the paint MUCH easier to use. BTW the reason there was so much yellow on the palette is that the tube gave away (15 year old lead foil will do that) spilled an excess of the paint.



The technique involves applying a little of the paint to an area and then taking a flat dry brush to stipple the color over the area. You will see it lighten or darken, depending on the color, while still allowing the base texture to show through.



Here I applied thin lines of the highlight yellow to the highest point of raised areas.



And here…



As I add more to highlight areas you can see how the areas I already applied color to have lightened and you can still see the decal pattern through the color.




All of the yellow has been applied with some orange as well. I have then gone at it with a deep red in the shadow areas.





Finally here is a split view showing before and after the photo oils are applied. Once the oils have set and I apply another layer of Dullcote I’ll go back and add spot oil washes of Alizarin Crimson to set off certain details like the buttons.

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Old 07-10-2013, 05:13 PM
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Default Re: The Joker

Sharp! Excellent tutorial, Mark. Thanks for posting it. And thanks for the painting demonstrations you've done the past few years up in the RI suite at Wonderfest. They were not to be missed!
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Old 07-10-2013, 05:39 PM
Mark Yungblut Mark Yungblut is offline
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Default Re: The Joker

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Originally Posted by HauntedPen View Post
Sharp! Excellent tutorial, Mark. Thanks for posting it. And thanks for the painting demonstrations you've done the past few years up in the RI suite at Wonderfest. They were not to be missed!
YW! I plan to keep doing them at WF. I also plan to do a series of tutorials for the site over the next year.
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:14 PM
Mark Yungblut Mark Yungblut is offline
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Default Re: The Joker

Just a short two posts before I take a long weekend on the lake…

I need to preface this by apologizing for the lower res images I rest my camera and it defaulted to a lower resolution.

First up in this breaking out some oils to start working on the inside of the mouth and get some color applied to the base wash of acrylic. I first took a scrap of corrugated cardboard and I portioned out some appropriate colors. The colors on this palette are alizarin crimson, cadmium red hue, cadmium red deep, burnt umber, Indian red and Naples yellow.



These were blended a bit to get a variety of shades with which to start the piece.





Here is the head before I started with the oils.



Here I applied the initial thin layer of a mix of alizarin crimson and burnt umber. Note there is a dot on the tip of the nose that I did not pick up on until later and it was wiped off.



Next I took some of the cadmium red and stippled it onto the tongue.



This was blended and then successively lighter colors were added and blended until I got a color close to what I wanted as a finished color.





I shot this one for grins to see what dramatic lighting did…



Next up masking with Silly Putty…

Wait WHAT?!?!
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